“Silver 9” [Series 3 electrodes] Microprocessor Controlled Ionic/Colloidal Silver Generator More accurately stated: EIS Electrically Isolated Silver
Produces Ionic Ag (+) Silver Water and OH (-) ionized water [ aka True “Alkaline Water” ]
YOUTUBE videos: By Deep River Films in Florida.
Independently produced and contains a few minor errors [electrode configuration, package contents] Pre 2015 version using Series 2 electrodes
Introduction to Silver9
Silver9 Batteries Water Test Cleaning
[Error correction] The faster the LED dims, the better the water. REALLY pure water and the LED may need to be in a dark room to be seen at all.
LED LIGHTS /Programming
To Operate: [Bare Bones Basic]
1] Insert electrodes into sockets and arrange them so they are parallel in both planes.[end view/side view]
2] Plug in the power.
The wall supply will work on either 120 VAC or 240 VAC to output 24 VDC..or use any other source between 12 and 36 volts.
3] Place generator/electrode assembly on jar of distilled water filled so the water level just barely doesn't touch [ 1/8 inch under] the electrode sockets. That is an IMPORTANT calibration factor!
The generator is ‘designed’ to fit a small or standard mouth canning jar. [1 quart/liter preferred]
The SWAP/DC [Red/Green] LED will light up showing that electrical current is going through the water.[If the water is extremely pure, the LED may be very dim at first] [..no water, no flow, no LED, right? ]
If that LED is lit, you ARE making CS.
The generator will turn itself off at around 10 uS [uS = Microsiemens of Conductivity Per Cubic Centimeter of water]
[1 uS *more or less* = 1 PPM Silver]
Other useful stuff: [More advanced instructions]
****Wait 3 seconds or more before pressing programming button.****
*If no programming is done, the generator will be operating in pure Automatic Mode and will turn off at ~10 uS [ Microsiemens per Cubic Centimeter of Conductivity]
*The Green LED shifting to Red and back every five minutes shows that the SWAP function is in operation
*Pressing the programming button will put the generator into Programmed Manual Mode Standby and the Yellow LED will light up.
*When ~10 uS is reached as per Automatic Mode, the Programmed Manual Mode then goes into operation and the Yellow LED will start blinking a countdown sequence according to how many times the button has been pressed. Each blink represents 1 hour of process time to go.
You may add time at any time the generator is running.
*How long it takes to reach 10 uS and go into Programmed Manual Mode [or turn off at 10uS if no programming was done] depends on water quality and volume of water. [Very pure water makes that time span QUITE LONG, while using bad water that already has 10 uS conductivity, it can be almost instant. If that time span is less than 3 seconds, you must do the programming before introducing the electrodes to the water ]
Times are typically 3-4 hours for a pint or 7-9 hours for a quart to reach uS/10 PPM, but can be much longer.
** Pre-heating the water to around 100-120 Deg F will reduce the initial time variable significantly.
Use a microwave or double boiler to heat water...do not heat in a pan then transfer.
****Whatever conductivity the water already has subtracts from how much was added **as Silver**
But conductivity added by heat that cools off as more silver builds up has no effect on final results.
*Each press of the programming button will add 1 hour of processing time for adding ~2 uS to a Quart of water or ~4 uS to a Pint. [ All of that will be Silver ]
** So far as I can determine 1 uS [ more or less] = 1 PPM Silver @ 10-12 uS. [ But using a meter has its problems and at over 30 uS, a meter is totally useless]
*Note that BOTH LEDs will be lit or one lit and the other blinking.
*So long as the Green/Red LED is lit, you ARE making CS whether or not the yellow LED is lit or blinking.
*If the Green/Red LED isn't lit, unplug and replug power to **power off reset** and try again. [Remember: Wait 3 seconds or more before pressing programming button.]
*If the generator turns off [Green/Red LED isn't lit ] before 3 seconds is up, that is VERY bad water and you must do all the programming before you place the electrodes into the water.
When the Green/Red LED is no longer lit, the generator is OFF.
To restart, un-plug and re-plug [ POR Power Off Reset ]
*DC Mode: [SWAP is the default mode and works much better ]
If for some strange reason one wants to use DC output, press the programming button for over 5 seconds before doing anything else.
*Doing so will also count as one button push in Programmed Mode.
*The Red/Green LED will not change color after 5 minutes, showing that the output to the electrodes is DC.
*One electrode will turn fuzzy black and the other may grow a bubbly whitish grey beard which can then break apart and enter the water.
To exit DC Mode, **power off reset** [Start over]
30 Days: Return for full refund for no reason at all. One year: Replace or repair, no charge unless damaged by abuse. Do unplug between uses, don’t turn upside when wet especially if left plugged in, don’t run generator with water level too high. These are abuses that can cause the bottom to silver plate and cause malfunctions. Repairs will never exceed $20 to cover parts and return shipping...if it can be repaired. Unused portion will be returned with repaired unit.
There are no use standards in existence for Colloidal Silver that make any sense at all, therefore, PPM is pretty much a moot point so long as it is ‘strong enough’.
It is generally judged to be ‘impossible’ to overuse at 20 PPM and under.
At under 20 PPM, the water is far more toxic than the silver that’s in it. Most retail outlets sell Colloidal Silver at between 5 and 10 PPM.
The “actual” PPM is far less important than consistency between batches.
This is the best that I’ve ever heard it stated.
Dosing is not a science. The key word is "enough."
If you've used CS before, then you already know that you're not allergic to it, therefore you don't have to start with the few drops on the tongue that I suggest to new users, "just in case."
Beyond that, it would be good if we knew what kind of CS you've got. If store-bought, which brand and what supposed strength? If home made,what kind of generator and how brewed.
The usual advice is to start small and ramp up the dose until you have the effect you want. This is measured by either the symptoms improving or by the symptoms worsening (temporarily) in a Herxheimer reaction.
In general, flu-like symptoms and a general yucky feeling mark the Herxheimer reaction. In severe cases Herx reactions can be life threatening, particularly in people who are already weakened. If there
is a bad infection that is destroyed very rapidly by the treatment it can overwhelm the body, leading to a shock reaction that could require emergency treatment.
Thus the caution to start small and ramp up until some effect is noted, then hold at that level until effects subside. When that happens, ramp up the dose further until effects resume, but remain manageable, and so
on. Keep at it a few days longer if all seems to be well, just to be sure...
So what sort of dose might you want to work up to?
First, I will *assume* an "average" CS brew of some 5 to 20 ppm in plain distilled water made with a simple generator.
For a very aggressive treatment, some of our members have reported good `results taking a good mouthful (very precise measurement unit there!), swished around in your mouth for at least a couple of minutes before swallowing, taken every waking half hour to an hour.
To start slowly, just to be cautious of any severe Herx, I would probably wait a couple of hours between "swallows" at first.
One other thing is to consider adding Gatorade to the protocol. If you search the archives on that subject, you'll see that it is used to *drastically* increase the rate at which the CS enters the bloodstream.[note: Mix CS with Gatoraid and use immediately…do not store it ]
Lastly, I want to say that, if push comes to shove, going to the doctor for antibiotics is not out of the question. I doubt it will be needed, but if your self-treatment is not effective within a reasonable time,
the conventional alternative will serve as a safety net. Not without side effects, true, but safer than no treatment.
You must judge the risks and only you are responsible for the consequences of your health-care decisions. Don't take my suggestions as a substitute for your own judgement or that of your professional advisors. [Authors name with-held by request]
All hand held PWT/TDS/PPM meters [and the silver generators auto off] work the same way. They actually measure conductivity not PPM. They are simply not the same thing.
*When* the sample is metered makes a BIG difference as the reading can go down by as much as 40% starting at the moment power is removed from the electrodes.
*The generator does this in “real time”..you probably won't.
TDS (PPM) meters such as the TDS3 also measure conductivity but then convert that measurement to an estimated PPM using water industry standard tables for dissolved salts. [NaCl in this case] (also known as Total Dissolved Solids or TDS)
Since Ionic/Colloidal Silver is not a mineral salt, it behaves differently and requires a different technique for reading the TDS meter.
The reading can generally be taken ‘as is’ when checking pure distilled water or when checking any other water source such as tap or well water. (ie 200 on the meter = 200 PPM)
However, when checking Colloidal Silver made with pure distilled water the reading should be doubled. [If it reads 10, it’s actually 20 PPM of colloidal silver]
Due to range and resolution limitations, when measuring colloidal silver with this meter you should also allow for an error factor of at least +/- 10% . So for example 10 on the TDS meter could be as high as 22 PPM or as low as 18 PPM of colloidal (when doubled).
Meters such as the Hanna PWT, the HM Digital EC3 and COM-100 read out directly in Microsiemens of Conductivity [uS].
The COM100 also reads out in 3 different scenarios for PPM depending on the suspected dominant mineral salt content.
Colloidal Silver water is NOT salt water.
To get an idea of what the PPM is in CS, use 1uS = ~1 PPM.
Concentrations over the saturation point of Ionic Silver in water [~ 10 PPM ] will progressively and variably form more and more non-conductive “particles” accounting for some of the difference between Faraday Equation Prediction vs Conductivity Monitoring.
Beyond around 25 PPM in silver water a meter reading will have considerable slew towards the low side and a batch may never register more than 30 uS the day after it’s done even though it may really be 50+ PPM
This method has been checked against samples tested by an Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometer at a range average of 12 PPM at 85% readable ionic, but not at 20+ uS.
Tactic that works for me for [IMO] PROFOUNDLY greater effectiveness:
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of Baking Soda in about 1/2 cup water
Drink it down, wait a few minutes.
Follow that with "Silver Water" according to perceived need ....maybe a cup.
Repeat now and then.
What that does:
The Baking Soda converts stomach acid into salt and carbon dioxide gas [BURP ! ]
The resulting salt absorbs into the blood making it "thirsty" for more water to flush the excess salt out with.
Add "Silver Water" to satisfy the thirst....instant absorption and little or no stomach acid to make "Silver Chloride"
DO NOT put baking soda in the silver water before,during or after making it
To test for water contamination: [Using the generator ]
Fill container with fresh water to the proper level ..set everything up normally.
Start running the batch in " Programmed Manual" mode. [Press Programming Button one or more times so the YELLOW LED lights up. If the water is over 10 uS, the YELLOW LED will start blinking ]
Observe how bright the GREEN/RED LED is on top.
Now sloowly pull the generator/electrode assembly out of the water while watching the LED.
If that LED ****DOESN'T**** start getting dimmer immediately...that water is no good.
If the LED starts dimming when the electrodes are nearly out of the water...it's WAY no good.
If it doesn't dim at all before the electrodes clear the water and the LED goes out...that water is WAY WAY no good.
[Incidentally, the reverse works to tell you how far along you are. The gen is seeing about 20uS if the LED is fully bright with the electrodes just touching the water ]
Get a different jug of water.
Make sure you aren't contaminating good water with water spots, dirty jar or even finger prints.
There are many ways to contaminate water and no two jugs of water are exactly the same regardless of who distilled and bottled it. [Most of them are fine, but everybody has a bad day now and then]
Boiling Distilled water in a contaminated container will generally clean it up [ Nuke It ?]
Electrodes can be cleaned by immersing them in 3% Hydrogen Peroxide for a just a few minutes.
Rinse with Distilled Water.
Normally, store bought distilled water will range at around 5 uS but can be as pure as .2 uS
*******If the water is EXTREMELY pure*****
You may need a pitch dark room to see that the [GREEN/RED] LED is lit at all.
If that is the case, it can take several hours more than usual for a batch to be done.
The “Silver 9” will make CS in any water, but… results will vary.
[Well, “bad” CS is better than no CS ]
If a batch has gone yellow, about 6 drops of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide used a few days after it was made will usually clear it up over night.
[If it instantly turns murky brown, you used it too soon. Try that in a sample first]
Adding not more than 2 or 3 Drops of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per Quart to the water when the Yellow LED starts blinking and letting the generator run longer will increase the Colloidal [vs Ionic] Content [Do not reset/unplug the generator when doing this as you will now be making non conductive colloids that meters and the generator cannot detect and it may not ever turn itself off ...or enter programmed mode. ]