Insert the electrode wires into the electrode holder holes so they are parallel in both planes and attach the Electrode Leads
The closest together set of hole will make the generator to turn itself off when the conductivity of the water reaches about 10 microsiemens [uS] with the addition of Silver Ions or about 5 PPM after stabilization.
The next furthest set of holes @ 1 ½” apart yields +/- 20 uS or about 12 PPM silver in the water, the next 30 uS or 25 PPM [not recommended for consistent results] and so on.
Fill the container with “DISTILLED or De-Ionized water almost all the way to the top.
Reverse Osmosis water is not generally pure enough. Carefully collected rain water “can” be. [Let it rain a while before collection on a very clean surface] [See “Water Test”]
If the water isn’t very good and the generator turns off fairly fast, use the next set of holes to add that much more conductivity from Silver to the conductivity the impure water already has from other minerals.
The CS might turn yellow if the water is impure but it will still “work” and it can usually be “rescued” by adding a few drops of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide… at the right time. [Use it too soon and the batch will instantly go murky white or brown ] Try a sample to see if it’s too soon.
Place the Electrode holder with the electrodes inserted into the desired holes on top of the container.
[ Electrode holder recently improved…photos not..but that’s the idea. ]
Supplied is a plug with two *Different Color* ‘gaterclip leads that plugs into the large socket opposite from the two *Same color* output leads. [The lighter color goes to the center of the plug, but that doesn’t matter with this generator]
Attach the input leads to any power source between 12 and 36 volts AC or DC such as solar panels, cordless tool batteries, snapped together 9 volt batteries [as shown] or just about anything. If it runs at all, it will run right.
You can’t hook it up the wrong way.
The “Auto Off”: circuits work like a PPM Meter [using conductivity to calculate PPM] Reset: Un-plug and re-plug power source.
After a batch is made, the conductivity will drop back some. When it has stopped dropping and the CS has “Stabilized”, the uS number and the PPM number are very close to the same. [ Fig 1 shows PPM AFTER stabilization, per electrode position ]
In any of the electrode positions, if you run a batch and let it stabilize, then re-run it back up to the Shut Down conductivity again, the drop back will be about half each time…For example using the 15PPM position that shuts down at ~20 uS…the previous 15 PPM will then be at ~18 PPM and the next re-run at ~20 PPM. Each re-run take less time to do until the generator won’t stay running at all.
Trying for a concentration past around 20-25 uS gets “iffy” quality wise, meaning, quality when using the 25 PPM electrode position might not be all that great [If it works, and you like it…. it works] Much depends upon the water being used and no two jugs of water are exactly the same.
SWITCHES [optional] : Manual mode will disable the Auto Off for making the CS very strong or if good water is not available.
DC mode will disable the SWAP function for traditional Direct Current output The current controls will ensure about 1.7 uS “PPM” [calculated] per oz of water, per minute but only AFTER the LED has become fully bright indicating that the generator is pulling current to its control setting. How long that takes depends on initial water quality. The closer together the electrodes are, the faster the generator will pull the full current. **
[ The light on top will turn from Green to Red and back showing that the electrode polarity is changing back and forth] The LED will not light up unless the electrodes are in water or otherwise “connected”. The LED shows how much current is being “Drawn” Eyeball style. [ It’s OK to let the electrodes touch each other, won’t hurt a thing.] Current is controlled to 1 Milliamp for making CS with supplied electrodes. [Optional Current Adjust Dial: 1 mA = Dot on case ] [Longer Frequency = Less time, Shorter = More time ]
A Pint batch should take between 4 and 6 hours using the 15 PPM electrode position. [Can take much longer if the water is extremely pure]
Pre-warming the water will help speed things up…and…induce thermal convection stirring. Don’t exceed 120 Deg F
Seeding the water with some of a previous batch will speed things up by shortening or eliminating the “ramp up to current” time.
Starting at the 5 PPM electrode position, then going to the 15 PPM, then 25 PPM position will shorten the ramp up to current time as well. **
Continuous Batching: Take what you need and top off the container with fresh water, “Reset” the Auto Off and walk away.
The less you drain off and replace, the less time it will take to come back up to strength. [It’s best to not drink straight from the container ]
1] Plug everything in with the electrodes in the 1 ½ inch apart [15 PPM] position
2] Short the electrodes together with a spoon to see how bright the LED is at max current flow.
3] You may have noticed that the LED brightens up as you lower the generator and electrodes into the water and gets dimmer as you pull it out. If it doesn't GET dimmer as you pull it out or it gets fully bright before it’s nearly seated in the container...the water is WAY too contaminated.
The LED may be too dim to see in a brightly lit room if the water is really really good.
What it all boils down to is, if the LED doesn't get dimmer as you first start to pull the electrodes from the water, the water is no good.
If buying bad water is a concern, take it back and say you had it tested and it failed the test for distilled water.
But first, read the label and make really sure that it says it IS distilled water.
To use the generator as a meter and get an idea of progress
Submerge properly positioned [parallel in both planes] electrodes into the water in the 15 PPM hole position, move them up and down in the water to find the exact point where the LED is at its brightest. A semi darkened room is helpful here.
Per inch of electrode exposure to the water: [uS = PPM in silver water after stabilization, it’s just conductivity *uS* before that]
5 uS and under, 2 3/4" of electrode in the water [full exposure]
12 uS = 1 1/2" [about half done]
20 uS and up...1/8" [just touching the water, done or nearly done]
Painting or applying dark tape to one side of the container and running the set up in the sun will make the sun stir the water by applying a temperature difference, making the warmer water rise and the cooler water sink…good enough for running Quart sized batches.
A desk lamp close to one side will do that too.
Pure CS is NOT light sensitive.
Storage can be done in almost any clean container that isn’t metal. Glass is best. Recycle #1 [PETE] preferred for plastic.
CS should be stored at room temperature, not refrigerated or frozen. Seal well to prevent contamination from air borne gasses.
Shelf life: If it looks good, it is good. [I’ve never found any limit ]
Other ways to power a Pup.. any power source from 12 to 36 volts AC or DC
[Do not exceed 26 Volts AC] such as 3 or 4 nine volt battery arrays, solar panels, cordless drill, automobile batteries or their chargers. Also can be used on bare wire transformer outputs.
No polarity problems…you can’t hook it up wrong.