General Instructions for “Silver 7”

1] After removing contents of shipping box, wash components as desired taking care to not get liquid into electronic areas  and  rinse well with distilled water as desired.   

2] Insert electrodes into sockets on the bottom of the generator so the ends of the loops are opposite each other. Adjust by rotation so they are parallel to each other in the two directions  [a parallel plane]
See “How to insert electrodes” [Exchange electrode positions between batches for even wear if using DC mode
output.]

2] The generator is ‘designed’ to fit a small or standard mouth canning jar.
 Fill container with room temperature distilled water so it is close to the bottom of the generator but not touching it   [About 1/8” below bottom of cap]  Using pre-warmed water will speed the process. Do not exceed 100Deg
To avoid getting water inside the stirrer, [BAD idea.] fill ….BEFORE… container placement on the stirrer.

3]Place generator and container of water on the Thermal stir [lamp] or Mag Stir base in an out of the way spot where it won’t be knocked over. [Turn the heater/lamp/mag stir unit on.] [See Mag Stir info sheet]  [Mirror surfaces have a protective covering that may be peeled off if desired]       No stirrer?     Use SWAP mode and stay with around 1 qt batches
Painting one side of the jar black and shining sunlight on it will induce thermal stirring, or a desk lamp placed close to one side of the jar.  [Sunlight won’t hurt a thing]

4] Position switches on top toward the “Auto” position to enable the “auto off” control and “SWAP” or “DC to enable automatic polarity switching or go with the more traditional method. [ In “SWAP” mode, the light on top will turn from Green to Red and back every 1 to 2 minutes. In DC mode , it stays Green.] LED will not light up unless the electrodes are in water.
******If the water is really really good, the LED may not be visibly lit except in a pitch black dark room...it’ll get brighter as silver ions add conductivity to the water.

5] Go about your business. Checking by now and then to wipe electrodes gently…. if needed. [Only obviously heavy deposits need be wiped off. The electrodes needn’t be shiny.] SWAP mode prevents deposit buildups

6] The generator shuts down when it detects  an appropriate conductivity in the water at around 18-20 uS indicating that the Colloidal Silver Hydrosol is strong enough.  [The LED goes out] Stronger solutions can be made by continuing in Manual mode.

7] Slowly remove generator from water, then remove electrodes from the generator ..wipe them off and remove any moisture from the generator body.  Do not place generator upside down while wet.  You might want to wipe the generator body with a cloth damp with distilled water. Any colloidal silver that dries on it will stain the plastic.
 Silver is very soft..be gentle.   Pull cleaning cloth away from holding fingers
8] Unplug generator, remove and wipe off electrodes before storing or starting another batch. Do not place generator cap upside down while wet or store it on the container if it’s wet, or store it plugged in.

If the generator shuts down fairly quickly, the water is not very pure. [See “Water Test”] You can still continue by using with the “auto off” disabled [Switch in “manual” position] and running a timer. The current controls will ensure about 1.7 uS  “PPM” [calculated] per oz of water, per minute in DC mode. Rate is variable in AC/SWAP mode [Quality may vary if it’s made very strong or water is not good]     Generally speaking…if you can taste a metallic flavor, it’s strong enough.
    

 

 

 

 

 

 

Advanced Instructions:

The LED [light on top]
The LED only lights up when there is current flowing between the electrodes. It will NOT be lit if the electrodes are not in the water.
At first, the LED will be lit in both auto and manual mode.
After the generator shuts itself down, the LED will only light up in manual mode.
To enable auto mode again, [reset] disconnect power momentarily. [‘Sometimes’ flicking the switch will reset the generator but that is not a reliable way to do it]
If SWAP mode is selected, the LED will shift from Green to Red and back every 1 1/2 to 3 minutes indicating that current flow is reversing directions. LED will remain Green if DC output is selected.
Generator will not turn off if “Manual” mode is selected.

 

 

 

Batch Times
Typical time for batches run in Automatic Mode will be approximately 7 to 9 hrs per quart. If the time is less than that the water is not good.  More?  The water is very good or there are very thick deposits on the electrodes. Time can be VERY long when using very good water.
                                  
   It is nearly impossible to make “bad” CS with the Coyote Zenerprizes generators, however, following certain procedures appropriate to various situations will yield better, more potent results. These are not hard fast rules.

Reset procedure: Unplug the power supply, from the the wall. The LED will light briefly if it is off and the electrodes are submerged. Then plug it back in.

Color of the CS:
Any color other than violet, red or green is “OK”.    No color is best.     Pale yellow is next best...still very good.
Various environmental factors and contaminants can make CS turn colors.
 Adding 1 drop 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per 4-8 oz  to colored  CS breaks the particles apart even in very small particle colorless CS and clears out the color.  Using less takes longer. [Using it too soon may show you the “energetic” or catalytic difference between stabilized and CS before it stabilizes...turning it instantly brown]
Many people say that adding Peroxide to any CS makes it work better, but don’t “start” a batch with CS that has Peroxide in it.
Wait a day or so before using Peroxide and test some in a separate container to make sure it’s not too soon.

Highly particulate colorless CS that’s at a particular particle size range will sometimes pick up room colors like there were billions of tiny mirrors in there, especially yellow. To see if it's really yellow or just reflecting color, hold the batch up to a window away from nearby objects or take it outside and look through it. [As little as one drop Peroxide per quart will break those particles down to the next smaller size range]
Colloidal particles won’t always form right away. Some of the Ionic silver will convert to Colloidal Silver in time and the TE [laser light beam] will become more pronounced later on.   The stronger you make it, the higher the percentage of particles there will be.
If you see “sparklies” in the laser beam, they are generally deposits that have come loose from the electrodes or dust particles. They self destruct or settle out after a while.  [The “generator” doesn’t make particles at all, they form out of ions later.]

Deposits:
 The silver slick you may see sometimes, comes from the transfer of plate out off one of the electrodes transferring to the surface tension of the water when the electrodes are removed.  
One electrode releases oxygen into the water and the other releases hydrogen.
White deposits are Silver Hydroxide made when silver ions contact hydrogen.
 Black deposits are Silver Oxide made when Silver Ions contact oxygen.
 While unsightly, none of these deposits are harmful. They can be removed by allowing the water to sit for a several hours and pouring off the top 7/8ths or so.
 When the generator is run in SWAP mode, most deposits are canceled out with the polarity shifting.

 The ion emission rate when using constant current is essentially linear. Before the generator attains its full regulated current, ion emission rates can be much much less. This is why times can vary quite widely with water quality differences
When the LED is at full brightness, the regulated current has been achieved. Shorting the electrodes together with a spoon or immersing them in tap water will tell you how bright that is. Auto off function can also be tested in this manner.
The auto off gives you a starting point to use a timer but the final PPM is relative to conductivity ‘after’ the silver water stabilizes 15 to 24 hours later and that stabilization is volume dependent. So different sized batches have to be run differently to get to the same place when all is said and done. However, every batch done the same way will be pretty much the same. This is more important than achieving a given “PPM
Plug n’ Play PPM is typically: ~9-12 PPM in a quart, ~12-15 PPM in a pint @ the same ~18-20 uS shutdown point.

 To make CS stronger than "Plug n' Play":  uS [Microsiemens] is a unit of conductivity.
Shutdown point setting is ‘hardwired’ for reliability with [+/-] 1% componants and can sometimes vary a little between generators.  16-19 uS is “typical”

1st way:  1] After Generator shuts down, remove  electrodes from water and wipe.
      2] Let the batch sit overnight
      3] Unplug and replug for reset and allow to run till shutdown again.
 When the generator won’t stay running for more than a few minutes in stabilized CS, you’re where the shutdown conductivity number equals the PPM number.        Quarts may require doing this 3 times. Each reset will take less time.

 

 

 

 

2nd way: [faster]
After the auto off  triggers, throw switch to the manual position and continue at 1.7 Us  “PPM” [calculated] per oz of water, per minute.
Ion release rate at full current is 1.7 "ppm" per minute per oz of water. That's about 12 minutes [11.7 something] to hit 20 uS  times however many oz of water being being run. [ A pint takes about 4 hours, a quart 8 ]
IOW
To get a quart to add 10 PPM takes about 4 hours. [But to get to that first 10 PPM could take 5 hours or even as long as 16 hours..usually between 7 and 9 ]

If the water is bad, you'll get full current immediately rather than having to wait from a few minutes to a few hours for good water to get going.

In the “real” world, actual PPM is not very important.  Potency can be estimated by the metallic flavor.
[Ho Hum,chug again/ pucker face, that’s enough/ then….rocket fuel !! ]
Personally, I use the CS as it’s made in Plug n’ Play with the ‘amount’ used, regulated by it’s flavor and my intention.
The difference is only water and CS is plenty safe enough for intuition to be your guide. [Really, it’s your ONLY guide anyhow as NO dosing recommendations I’ve EVER seen make the least bit of scientific sense.]

To use the generator as a seat of the pants meter to get an idea of where you are:
Submerge properly positioned [parallel in both planes] electrodes into the water, move them up and down to find the exact point where the LED is at its brightest. A semi darkened room is helpful here.
Per inch of electrode exposure to the water: [uS = PPM in silver water ]
[The decimal points do not indicate precision, values are approximate ]
 2 7/8" [Full exposure to the water] if LED dims when electrodes are moved just a little…very little is in that water
If LED dims when electrodes are still ½ in the water, you are about half way to shutdown
If LED ….is still fully bright when electrodes are just touching the water….call it done.

 

 SWAP vs DC Output Methods

My basic conclusions........

DC makes a lot of crud form on the electrodes to fall off,  SWAP keeps them much cleaner and wastes very little silver, much less byproduct on the bottom of the jar than with DC.  DC needs constant stirring.

 

Warranty terms:
30 Days:   Return for full refund for no reason at all. One year: Replace or repair, no charge unless damaged by abuse. Do unplug between uses, don’t turn upside when wet especially if left plugged in, don’t run generator with water level too high.  These are abuses that can cause the bottom to silver plate and cause malfunctions. Repairs will never exceed $20 to cover parts and return shipping. Unused portion will be returned with repaired unit.

There are no use standards in existence for Colloidal Silver that make any sense at all, therefore, PPM is pretty much a moot point so long as it is ‘strong enough’.

It is generally judged to be ‘impossible’ to overuse at 20 PPM and under.
At under 20 PPM, the water is far more toxic than the silver that’s in it.  Most retail outlets sell Colloidal Silver at between 5 and 10 PPM.
The “actual” PPM is far less important than consistency between batches.

 

 

This is the best that I’ve ever heard it stated.

    Dosing is not a science. The key word is "enough."
 If you've used CS before, then you already know that you're not allergic to it, therefore you don't have to start with the few drops on the tongue that I suggest to new users, "just in case."
 Beyond that, it would be good if we knew what kind of CS you've got. If store-bought, which brand and what supposed strength?  If home made,what kind of generator and how brewed.
  The usual advice is to start small and ramp up the dose until you have the effect you want. This is measured by either the symptoms improving or by the symptoms worsening (temporarily) in a Herxheimer reaction.

  In general, flu-like symptoms and a general yucky feeling mark the Herxheimer reaction. In severe cases Herx reactions can be life threatening, particularly in people who are already weakened. If there
is a bad infection that is destroyed very rapidly by the treatment it can overwhelm the body, leading to a shock reaction that could require emergency treatment.
 
 Thus the caution to start small and ramp up until some effect is noted, then hold at that level until effects subside. When that happens, ramp up the dose further until effects resume, but remain manageable, and so
on. Keep at it a few days longer if all seems to be well, just to be sure...

 So what sort of dose might you want to work up to?

  First, I will *assume* an "average" CS brew of some 5 to 20 ppm in plain distilled water made with a simple generator.

 For a very aggressive treatment, some of our members have reported good `results taking a good mouthful (very precise measurement unit there!), swished around in your mouth for at least a couple of minutes before swallowing, taken every waking half hour to an hour.

 To start slowly, just to be cautious of any severe Herx, I would probably wait a couple of hours between "swallows" at first.

 One other thing is to consider adding Gatorade to the protocol. If you search the archives on that subject, you'll see that it is used to *drastically* increase the rate at which the CS enters the bloodstream.[note:  Mix CS with Gatoraid and use immediately…do not store it ]

 Lastly, I want to say that, if push comes to shove, going to the doctor for antibiotics is not out of the question. I doubt it will be needed, but if your self-treatment is not effective within a reasonable time,
the conventional alternative will serve as a safety net. Not without side effects, true, but safer than no treatment.

 You must judge the risks and only you are responsible for the consequences of your health-care decisions. Don't take my suggestions  as a substitute for your own judgement or that of your professional  advisors.      [Authors name with-held by request]